In my last post I exulted on the loveliness that is Vienna. The grand architecture, regal attractions like performances at the Spanish Riding School and the palaces (plural). This small city is packed with elegance and charm.

But that is only the half of it as I have yet to talk about the food. Many North Americans lump all “German” food together as some type of amalgamation of heavy meaty dishes. As someone based in Berlin, I can recognize most of the dishes categorized as German like Schweinshaxe, Schäufele and even the humble Bretzel as Bavarian by birth. Germany has distinct food regions, and its German-speaking neighbors to the south have a food culture all their own. One of the most famous “German” dishes is distinctly Austrian, though it is so totally beloved it is served across Europe and around the world, the Schnitzel.

In this post I will offer some of my favorite things to eat in Vienna and where to eat them. It is an essential element of any visit to the Austrian capitol.

A proper Schnitzel doesn’t restrict itself to plate borders PHOTO: Erin Porter

Wiener Schnitzel at Figlmüller

As mentioned above, the well-known Schnitzel is actually an Austrian dish and they are rightfully proud. I had one of my finest meals at this restaurant in Vienna over a decade ago and still recall it fondly. Figlmüller calls itself the “Home of the Schnitzel” and it truly delivers on experience and taste. Note there are two locations for this restaurant with the original restaurant on Wollzeile, but either site will leave you full and happy with a schnitzel that delightfully dangles off the plate.

Taking a step back – what is a Wiener Schnitzel? A proper schnitzel is made of a thin piece of veal which is pounded flat, breaded and fried to perfection. It can be made with other meats, but then is called Wiener Schnitzel vom Schwein/Pute/Huhn (“Viennese schnitzel of pork/turkey/chicken”) or Schnitzel (nach) Wiener Art (“Schnitzel Viennese style”).

It is typically garnished with a simple slice of lemon, but can be topped with a creamy mushroom sauce and served as Jägerschnitzel, or a politically incorrect Zigeunerschnitzel (gypsy schnitzel) has a spicy sauce. It is usually accompanied by the classic of Kartoffeln (potatoes), either boiled with parsley and butter, as a Kartoffelsalat (potato salad), or dressed down as Pommes (french fries).

If you want to experiment with all the types of Schnitzel, Schnitzelwirt offers an impressive amount of varieties and Restaurant Landia is said to serve a respectable veggie version. And if you are traveling elsewhere else in Austria, like to Salzburg, Restaurant Meissl & Schadn has one of the most beautiful presentations for schnitzel and boasts that this version was once ordered by Sigmund Freud.

Sekt and Wurstchen at Bitzinger Würstelstand Albertina

Würstelstands (sausage stands) are a total thing in Vienna. They are on every corner and offer the chance for a bite between meals, or to simply gorge on sausage.The history on these is quite interesting as they were founded during the Austro-Hungarian monarchy and meant to provide jobs for those injured in war. They were originally mobile, only allowed to become permanent stalls in Vienna in the 1960s.

If you are going to eat at just one, the location between the opera house and the Albertina has been designed by architects Schuberth und Schuberth and is topped by a giant bunny. Even more impressive are what comes out of the small grill kitchen. Order a Käsekrainer (Brühwurst with cheese) while standing in front of the classic buildings, or step up your opera game by rushing out at breaks to get a glass of Sekt (sparkling wine) with your sausage.

Everything at the Naschmarkt

The Naschmarkt is the largest market in Vienna and it has everything. You’re not restricted to Austrian delicacies here; there is Italian, Turkish, Vietnamese, Indian. Items are generally inexpensive with lots of free samples. There is an abundance in middle eastern food and spices, sometimes a rarity in Austria. This is the perfect place to plan a picnic on one of Vienna’s idyllic greens.

One note that my family went in the presumable off-season (February) though it runs year-round, 6 days a week (Monday to Saturday) and the goods were a little tired, the sausages having seen better days. This is likely a one-off experience, but it might be best to visit during busier times for more food turnover. Also note that in summer many cafes have open-air seating. And if you want to eat and shop, Saturday there is a weekly Flohmarkt (flea market).

Open sandwhiches at Trześniewski

Open-faced sandwiches in Vienna PHOTO: Erin Porter

On my first trip to Vienna I read Kafka ate here and that was reason enough for me. I was off for my first visit! And I continue to eat here each time I go to Vienna.

Along with famous clientele, Trześniewski is billed as the oldest fast food location in Vienna. Like everything in Vienna, their fast food is classy. It began with a Polish immigrant (hence the name) more than 120 years ago and is still a popular lunch destination for locals and tourists. There are now several locations throughout the city serving a long list of open-face sandwiches covered with a variety of spreads. Egg is a common ingredient, but ham, pickles, mushrooms, truffle, carrots, bell pepper, salami, and more also make an appearance. Order plenty, wait for a seat in the small interior, and enjoy the efficient chaos.

Kaffee und Kuchen at Vienna Coffee House 

Kaffee und Kuchen in Wien PHOTO: Erin Porter

You can’t really talk about Vienna culture – or food – without talking about coffee culture. The first coffee houses in Vienna opened in 1683 and established a world-renowned reputation as the best. In fact, in 2011 Viennese coffee house culture was included by UNESCO in the national inventory of intangible cultural heritage. It isn’t just coffee and cake – it’s culture.

Order a coffee (helpful definitions of what to order here) and while away the day reading or chatting. Coffee automatically comes with cold tap water, a rarity in much of Europe.  And while you may order whichever cake appeals, you really should try the famed Sachertorte. This chocolate cake has been renowned since its invention by Franz Sacher in 1832 for Prince Metternich. You can also have Apfelstrudel, or Linzer Torte or….but you must have the Sachertorte.

There are no end to places to enjoy this experience in Vienna. You can try the dueling Sachertorte at Sacher Hotel or Demel, or simply enjoy a relaxing afternoon at Café Central, Café Prückel, Kaffee Alt Wien, or an endless amount of options.

I know there is more to talk about for food in Vienna like my favorite dessert, Kaiserschmarrn (kinda like a torn up, caramelized pancake) or Tafelspitz (boiled beef championed by Emperor Franz Joseph himself which I have yet to try). What are your favorite dishes in Austria?