The Town of Cochem

Cochem is located on the Moselle River (die Mosel in German), which is also one of the town’s many charms. Home to only about 5,200 residents (as of 2021), the small town punches above it weight with half-timbered houses, a riverside promenade, in-town vineyards, a scenic market square, charming restaurants and inns, and of course Cochem Castle.

The Reichsburg Cochem, on the left, sits high above the town of Cochem on the banks of the Moselle River in Germany. PHOTO © Hyde Flippo

Beyond the town’s own charms, Cochem is also a good jumping-off place for touring several nearby attractions. For those with a car, its location between Trier (57 miles) and Koblenz (32 miles) makes it ideal for easily visiting cool spots in the region. (There are two auto routes: the scenic B49/B53 road and the faster A48/A1 autobahn.) The river is also a scenic artery that can leisurely transport you to various wineries and more castles. The Moselle’s river locks ensure that you can’t be in a hurry.

Cochem also has a small but impressive rail station served by regional trains from Koblenz, Trier, Luxembourg, and a few other cities. The station is not very far from the town center. Besides central Cochem, there are two districts that also belong to the municipality: Cond on the right bank of the Moselle, and Sehl just upriver from the center on the left bank. Small passenger ferries and two auto bridges connect Cond and Cochem. River cruises are also available, taking passengers upstream to the scenic town of Beilstein and the ruins of Metternich Castle on the right bank. Bus service also operates along the Moselle River, but make sure you check the schedule. A bit farther upriver is another scenic town: Bernkastel-Kues, a popular stop for river cruise ships, hikers, and cyclists.

Cochem’s Marktplatz (market square) at dusk. The town is very walkable and rewards those willing to explore a little. PHOTO: Michael Pabst (Wikimedia Commons)

Heading in the opposite direction, downstream from Cochem, you’ll find the 12th century castle Burg Eltz (Eltz Castle) in Wierschem (near Moselkern). As you travel along the Moselle you’ll pass many vineyards, wineries, and wine bars featuring the delicious white wines of the region. Another option is cycling. Many miles/kilometers of bike paths line the river and surrounding hills. The Moselradweg is a 300-km+ (180-mi+) scenic cycling route running between Koblenz, Germany and Metz, France, but you can cover the segment between Cochem and Trier in two or three days, staying overnight at hotels or campgrounds. See the previous “Moselradweg” weblink for tips and details.

History
First mentioned in writing as Villa cuchema in 866, Cochem has history with a capital H. Starting in Celtic and Roman times, the settlement had various other names until the 18th century, when it became known as Cochheim or Cocheim, and finally Cochem. The town has suffered from wars and the Plague (1423-1425). Beginning in 1794, Cochem fell under French rule. That lasted until 1815, when the Congress of Vienna awarded the region to the Kingdom of Prussia. Cochem is now located in the German federal state (Bundesland) of Rhineland-Palatinate (Rheinland-Pfalz).

The Reichsburg | Imperial Castle

The castle we see today towering above Cochem is no longer the castle that originally stood there in the 12th century. That castle had a long and colorful history until French King Louis XIV had his troops obliterate it in 1689. Note: The best panoramic views of Cochem and its valley are seen from the castle.

Cochem Castle remained a colorful stone ruin for 180 years until wealthy Berlin businessman Louis Ravené decided to buy the ruins and rebuild the castle in 1868. But he was not interested in restoring it to its original Romanesque style and condition. He had his architects create a neo-Gothic castle that could serve as a summer residence for his family. (Interestingly, Ravené did this in the same year that Bavarian King Ludwig II began construction on his Romanesque revival Neuschwanstein Castle, also built upon the ruins of an old castle.)

However, some original Romanesque and Gothic elements, including the four-story Octagonal Tower and the Hexenturm (“witches tower”), were incorporated into Ravené’s new castle. The Witches Tower gets its name from the time when legend claims it was used to try women for witchcraft – by throwing them out of an upper window!

Cochem Castle’s “Hexenturm” (right) is one of several old original elements that were retained when the castle was renovated in 1868. PHOTO © Hyde Flippo

Cochem Castle History

The original Cochem Castle, perched prominently on a hill 300 feet above the Moselle River, served to collect tolls from passing ships. Modern research dates its origins to around 1100. (An alleged 1051 document mentioning the castle turned out to be a 13th century forgery.)

Before its destruction by the French in 1689 (a fate shared by many other castles and towns in the Palatinate), the castle had a long and fascinating history. It changed hands numerous times and, like most castles, also changed its form over the centuries. It was even in hock twice to pay off royal debts!

In 1151 King Konrad III ended a dispute over who should inherit Cochem Castle by laying siege to it and taking possession of it himself. That same year it became an official Imperial Castle (Reichsburg) subject to imperial authority.

The view from Cochem Castle is as impressive as the castle itself – with the Moselle River and the town of Cochem below. PHOTO © Hyde Flippo

In 1282 it was Habsburg King Rudolf’s turn, when he conquered the Reichsburg Cochem and took it over. But just 12 years later, in 1294, the newest owner, King Adolf of Nassau pawned the castle, the town of Cochem and the surrounding region in order to finance his coronation. Adolf’s successor, Albrecht I, was unable to redeem the pledge and was forced to grant the castle to the archbishop in nearby Trier and the Electorate of Trier, which then administered the Reichsburg continuously, except for a brief interruption when Trier’s Archbishop Balduin of Luxembourg had to pawn the castle to a countess. But he got it back a year later.

This engraving shows the ruins of Cochem Castle as they appeared before 1822. Engraving by Schnell from a drawing by Johann Ch. Xeller and an etching by Rudolf Kunz.

The Electorate of Trier and its nobility became wealthy and powerful in large part due to the income from Cochem Castle and the rights to shipping tolls on the Moselle. Not until 1419 did the castle and its tolls come under the administration of civil bailiffs (Amtsmänner). While under the control of the bishops and electors in Trier from the 14th to the 16th century, the castle was expanded several times.

In 1688 the French invaded the Rhine and Moselle regions of the Palatinate, which included Cochem and its castle. French troops conquered the Reichsburg and then laid waste not only to the castle but also to Cochem and most of the other surrounding towns in a scorched-earth campaign. Between that time and the Congress of Vienna, the Palatinate and Cochem went back and forth between France and Prussia. In 1815 the western Palatinate and Cochem finally became part of Prussia once and for all.

Another view of Cochem Castle and the nearby vineyards.
PHOTO © Hyde Flippo

The Ravené Years

Louis Jacques Ravené (1823-1879) did not live to see the completion of his renovated castle, but it was completed by his son Louis Auguste Ravené (1866-1944). Louis Auguste was only two years old when construction work at the old ruins above Cochem began in 1868, but most of the new castle took shape from 1874 to 1877, based on designs by Berlin architects. After the death of his father in 1879, Louis Auguste supervised the final stages of construction, mostly involving work on the castle’s interior. The castle was finally completed in 1890. Louis Auguste, like his father, a lover of art, filled the castle with an extensive art collection, most of which was lost during the Second World War.

In 1942, during the Nazi years, Ravené was forced to sell the family castle to the Prussian Ministry of Justice, which turned it into a law school run by the Nazi government. Following the end of the war, the castle became the property of the new state of Rheinland-Pfalz (Rhineland-Palatinate). In 1978 the city of Cochem bought the castle for 664,000 marks and now has it administered by a private company known as Reichsburg GmbH.

Cochem Castle Today

Some travel guides dismiss Cochem Castle as inauthentic and claim that it is, in Rick Steves’ words, “…better admired from afar.” Steves adds: “This 19th-century reconstruction is more fanciful than authentic.” Frankly, I find that attitude a bit stuffy and unfair. If you’ve read this far, you know that the castle is quite “authentic” in its own way. It not only contains original elements, it also has a very interesting story, and its long history is an integral part of Cochem’s history.

Those who choose to admire the Reichsburg only “from afar” will miss a stunning view of Cochem and the Moselle Valley. Even if you decide to skip the 40-minute guided tour (6.00 € per adult), the walk up to the castle, while steep, is an enjoyable experience that takes about 20 minutes from the center of town on a narrow paved road. You can also take a shuttle bus or drive up the winding Schlossstraße by car, but parking near the castle is limited. There is also a falconry show near the castle.

The castle’s Sonnenterrasse (sun terrace) restaurant is a good place to end your tour or to just enjoy some food and drink. See below for more about castle tours.

Touring Cochem Castle:

Castle tours are conducted in German, but English tours are available at half past the hour from 10:30 to 16:30 in the summer season. With advanced booking, for groups of 20 people or more there is the choice of an audio tour in English or ten other languages. For younger visitors (ages 4 to 10), there are special tours, which need to be booked in advance.
Admission charges: (2019)
Adults: 6.00 €
Children (6-17): 3.00 €
Groups (12 persons and more): 5.00 € per person
Pupils over 18, students: 5.00 €
Family Ticket: 16.00 € (with at least 2 kids under 18)

Prices subject to change. Also see the Cochem Castle weblinks below for more information. Recommended excursions from Cochem: A cruise on the Moselle River, a visit to the nearby Roman city of Trier (Germany’s oldest!) and, in the other direction, a tour of Burg Eltz.

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Related Pages
AT THE GERMAN WAY

• Castle Guides – More castles and palaces in Germany
• City Guides: Germany – More cities
• Hotels
• Air Travel – Flying to or in Germany

ON THE WEB

• Reichsburg Cochem – Official website in English, French, Dutch or German (click on a flag)
• History of Cochem Castle – Official website of the Reichsburg Cochem, in English
• Cochem – Wikipedia – About the city, in English
• Louis Jacques Ravené – Wikipedia – The Berlin businessman who built Cochem Castle (in German)
• Louis Auguste Ravené – Wikipedia – He finished his father’s castle (in German)
• Cochem Imperial Castle – Wikipedia (in English)
• Reichsburg Cochem – Wikipedia (in German)

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