It feels like every year at about this time I hear rumbles of dissatisfaction with Berlin. Sometimes they are coming directly from me, but this year I’ve noticed more online posts than usual complaining about the rising costs of the city, the dismal winter weather, and the general gloom that seems to envelope the city after the Christmas holidays. Some people seem to think elsewhere in Germany may be the solution and share conspiratorial stories about where else foreigners might like to live. I’m not often tempted, but a recent trip to Dresden and its many endorsements from my fellow foreigners in Berlin can leave me daydreaming of a different life.

The city’s proximity to Berlin (between 2-3 hours depending if you drive or take the train) mean that I have visited several times throughout the years. The German-Way’s City Guide to Dresden is a great way to get acquainted with the many sights of the city, but while tourists stampede through the Altstadt (old town) by day carried on tourist buses, the city regularly grows quiet at night. It really is worth an overnight stay to see the elegant rebuilt city spectacularly lit against the dark and without the hordes, but another form of escape is to travel to the Neustadt (new city).

Confusingly, the Altstadt is actually newer than the Neustadt since it was almost entirely rebuilt after WWII. The Neustadt lies just across the Elbe river and many time-pressed travelers never make it to this side to explore what else there is to see besides the rebuilt Fraunkirche, Fürstenzug, Zwinger and more. They really should. Along with the historic buildings still defiantly standing, this side of the river is known for its counter-culture with eclectic shops, bohemian cafes and grungy nightlife.

On my last trip to the city I stayed in the Neustadt and soaked up its “mini Berlin” vibes along with attractions all it own. Here are just a few highlight of the “New” City of Dresden from art passages to “The most beautiful dairy shop in the world”.

Neustadt in Dresden PHOTO: Erin Porter

Goldener Reiter (Golden Rider)

You haven’t even left sight of the Altstadt before you come upon one of the first sites of the Neustadt. The glow of the gold leaf on the rider shines through even on a gloomy day. Located on Neustädter Markt just over Augustusbrücke (Augustus Bridge), this statue of Augustus the Strong (Elector of Saxony and King of Poland) has graced this spot since 1736 and escaped the destruction of the second world war.

Barockviertel (Baroque Quarter)

It was due to Augustus and his son Frederick Augustus II that some of the most beautiful buildings in the Neustadt were built. They championed the construction of elegant baroque buildings which gave Dresden the nickname “Florence on the Elbe”. The majority of these gorgeous buildings can be found around Königstrasse (as well as Rähnitzgasse and Hauptstraße) in what is known as the Barockviertel. Intricate facades are separated by winding alleys with openings into romantic Höfe (inner courtyards).

Kunsthofpassage (Art Passageways)

Kunsthofpassage PHOTO: Erin Porter

The Kunsthofpassage in Dresden’s Neustadt is almost hidden within a network of Höfe that link Alaunstrasse 70 with Görlitzer Strasse 21-25. Those that find one of the entrances will be delighted to find five colorful interlocking courtyards, each individually decorated. There are unique collections of shops, galleries and restaurants within the passageways but the star is the decor itself.

Pictured above is a favorite, the Hof der Elemente (Elements courtyard) with pipes that turn into musical instruments when it rains. Other courtyards include Hof der Tiere (Farm Animals), Hof der Metamorphosen (Courtyard of the Metamorphoses), Hof des Lichts (Yard of Light) and Hof der Fabelwesen (Court of the Mythical Creatures).

Not your Average German Food 

If you’ve grown tired of the typical schnitzel and Kartoffel, Dresden’s Neustadt offers a welcome respite. Middle Eastern food is as prevalent here as in Berlin and our first meal at the Falafel Wagen left me impressed. Breakfast places and 3rd wave coffee joints abound so you can start your day right, or simply while away the time with modern Kaffee und Kuchen. Although I did raise an eyebrow at prices as inflation is as obvious here as elsewhere in Germany. While Dresden was once known as a cheaper East German alternative to the Haupstadt, I found prices to be the same if not higher than in Berlin.

Pfunds Molkerei

Pfunds Molkerei – The World’s Most Beautiful Dairy Shop PHOTO: Erin Porter

This little shop tucked away on the eastern side of Dresden’s Neustadt is billed as “The most beautiful dairy shop in the world”. This isn’t just popular opinion, but official; it is noted in the Guinness Book of Records. I was eager to visit this overlooked spot on my last visit and was disappointed to find the prominent note on the website that photography was not allowed. Upon arrival, I was relieved that a quiet day meant this “rule” was relaxed and I could take pictures, especially since I purchased a few items. I can imagine the nearly 500,000 tourists that stop to gawk at the shop each year can make excess picture-taking annoying and intrusive to the actual business.

This shop was opened in 1879 in tandem with German farmer Paul Pfund’s dairy operation. He had six cows visitors could observe as they browsed the products. It doesn’t get much more local than that! Today, the cows are gone but products remain dairy-centric as well as tourist knick-knacks for Dresden. There is a small tasting room off the main counter, then another section extending into the back. I didn’t venture upstairs, but the wood-paneled cafe is supposed to be a good spot to enjoy a break.

This is, of course, just a few of the things you may enjoy in Dresden’s Neustadt. Do you have a suggestion to share? I’d be happy to save it for my next visit.