The Deutschlandticket has been an absolute boon to my travel within Germany. With the tantalizing offer of low-cost air travel I have taken to sort jaunts around Europe from London to Naples. But as my family multiplies and travel costs rise, train travel has swung back into focus. In October alone, my family travelled to Rostock and Dresden, while using the ticket all month long for travel in Berlin. Quite a deal for 49 euro per month!

Note about the Deutschlandticket:

• Signing up through BVG’s app is the easiest way to purchase and utilize. We encountered long lines at the city offices and errors on the webpage that prevented us from completing the purchase
• Unlike its predecessor, the very popular 9 euro ticket, children over 6-year-old are not included and must have their own ticket
• The ticket also covers public transport in other cities so we could continue to ride on this ticket on trams, Ubahn and SBahn in other cities

Both trips were arranged fairly spontaneously. As we headed into a long weekend celebrating Tag der Deutschen Einheit (Reunification Day) on October 3rd, our hot water mysteriously went out. We knew this was bad news. We weren’t able to reach the Hauswerwaltung (apartment manager) and resigned ourselves to a few days without hot water. Then we remembered the Deutschlandticket. It was time to get out of town.

We decided on Rostock because it was under 3 hours travel by regional train and we hoped to make the most of the remaining pleasant weather. Plus – we had never been to Warnemünde before. It was decided. Here is a guide to a short trip to Rostock with the necessary side trip to Warnemünde.

Neue Markt in Rostock PHOTO: Erin Porter

Guide to Rostock

I had first heard about the city from my husband, who heard about it from a German professor in the States that spent a rough and tumble semester abroad here. He had the students sing the FC Hansa Rostock victory song every time they won. The problem was that they never won, so they ended up singing the song any time they played. This led to us deciding to detour here during the Christmas season a few years ago. Coming back from a few days in Stralsund, we found it much nicer than expected. The low expectations of the city – not just the Fussball team – were rooted in perceptions from the 1990s when Rostock had a somewhat well-earned notoriety.

Brief History of Rostock

Rostock is a Hanseatic city founded in the 1300s. It was the largest and most important port city in East Germany on the Warnow River and the north coast of Germany. Like many East German cities, it suffered after the fall of the Wall. It still has relatively high unemployment with a portion of the population relying on Harz-IV/social assistance. Even though there is a university in Rostock (founded in 1419), many young people have a Perspektivlosigkeit (perceived lack of prospects) about the city. The rise of far right politics in the form of parties like the AfD have also found a home in cities like Rostock.

We wanted to come back and see if our positive impression from our first visit were merely a result of the gemütlichkeit of the Weihnachtsmärkte. Luckily, it was more than the Glühwein that had us enjoying Rostock.

Attractions in Rostock

Rostock is a small city, easy to walk between its historic attractions enclosed in defensive walls and gaurded by towers. The city walls were initially erected in the 1100s, updated to withstand gunpowder in the 16th and 17th centuries, with many falling away in the 19th century due to the city’s modernization. Today, only four of over twenty medieval gates remain but they are still an impressive feature of the city and include some wooden walkways with views above the street.

• Kröpeliner Tor –  A towering six-story gate houses a cafe and small exhibition on the city fortifications of Rostock
• Kuhtor (Cow Gate) – This is the oldest surviving city gate in Northern Germany dating from the late 13th century. It still appears much as it did when it was built
• Steintor – Built between 1574 and 1577, this gate showcases the seals and symbols of the city. Look for the inscription “Sit intra te concordia et publica felicitas” (“May harmony and prosperity reign within your walls”)
• Mönchentor – “Monks’ Gate” was redesigned in 1806 in the classical style

Once called Hopfenmarkt, today’s University Square is centered on the Joy of Life fountain and bordered by the university building. The tourist office is also located here. Kröpeliner Straße, the main shopping street, radiates off of here toward the Kröpeliner Tor.

Neuer Markt is another main square and does not look as modern as its name indicates. Along with a series of Hansiatic buildings that survived WWII bombing, there is the pink Rathaus (town hall) with a mix of Gothic and baroque styles, Möwenbrunnen (Seagull Fountain), and tramlines running through toward the Kuhtor and around Marienkirche.

This church, St. Mary’s, has a 15th-century astronomical clock from 1230. Th clock is inside and displays the date, time, current phase of the zodiac, phase of the moon, solar altitude, and more. It is wound by hand twice a day at noon and at midnight which is when visitors should try to stop by to watch Jesus and the Apostles dance around.

Another major attraction of Rostock is its proximity to the nearby seaside, most accessible via Warnemünde.

Guide to Warnemünde

Warnemünde Beach and Teepott PHOTO: Erin Porter

Warnemünde is a white sandy beach that stretches from a bustling small city center to the crashing waves.  Shoes were immediately off and toes in the sand. We were pleased to find the water brisk, but warm enough to swim for early October. There are Strandkorb (beach chairs) a plenty and wooden walkways stretch into the sand making visits for people with mobility issues (or strollers) easier than expected.

There is a promenade that is whimsically marked with a representation of the solar system and points directly toward the Leuchtturm Warnemünde (Warnemünde Lighthouse). Though only a modest 30 metres high, it is historic standing in this spot since 1898. Visitors can climb the narrow winding stairs for just 3 euro from Easter to October for spectacular views of the Baltic Sea, boats, and the iconic Teepott, a GDR-era structure that is now the site of a cafe, restaurant and bar. Fischbrötchen (fish sandwiches) and seagulls abound at ground level. Be forewarned that watching an aggressive seagull swoop down to steal some food is a staple of a visit to Warnemünde.

Visitors can stroll the walkway that extends toward another small green lighthouse and spot the many memorials tucked into the rocks. The Alter Strom leads back into the town as it is a channel dug back in 1423. This was once the main channel linking Rostock’s port with the Baltic, but is now dwarfed by the larger Neuer Strom from 1903 right beside it. A promenade on the west side of the Alter Strom is lined with fishermen’s houses that have been transformed into shops and restaurants with parked boats on the other side offering floating snack bars.

The shoulder season was perfect for a weekend getaway to Rostock and Warnemünde, but I know it can get very busy in the summer and practically abandoned in the winter. We also saw flooding a few weeks ago that absolutely shook the coast, tossing boats on their side and floding the very areas we walked. If you’ve visited during these times, I would love to hear how you found it. In the meantime, happy (train) travel!