The GW Expat Blog

All Posts

German Cuisine: a Comforting Constant

One of the small things that charmed me about our San Diego neighborhood when I first visited it, was the presence of a small, independent used cookbook store. Sadly, it’s closing this Christmas. The owner explained to me that she can make more money working less hours by selling rarer cookbooks from home on the internet in four hours than working full-time running her shop. That’s what’s happening in America right now.

Sad as it is to lose another bookstore, let alone an independent one specializing in one of my favorite pastimes, I’ve managed to make up for lost time by visiting frequently and taking advantage of the sell-out prices. I picked up four vegetarian cookbooks for the price of $13. My German husband was not as enthusiastic as I was about these particular meatless bargain purchases. The next time I stopped by to browse, I couldn’t resist a ’70s relic which was a fondue and chafing dish cookbook. And last week, while I was waiting for my children to finish their music class around the corner, I wandered back in and succumbed to making some more unessential yet irresistible purchases: two German cookbooks. There was a third one but even I had to admit at that point that a third would have been excessive. Especially as I realized, the main point of this post, that the culinary styles of all three books were all the same. The same despite the fact that one was published in the ’60s, another in the ’70s and the last in the ’80s. On two of the covers: meat, sauce, and veggies. Exotically, at least I think to an American crowd, one of the veggies is fennel.

read more…

Cheese Please!

When the cool fog starts rolling across Lake Zurich, and the neon green foothills begin showing white frosting on top, my thoughts immediately turn to the tastes of Swiss winter foods. Last fall during my first few months in Switzerland, I started hearing people talk about some Swiss dish called Raclette. I had heard the word a couple of times in Germany during conversations about different Christmas traditions, but I had little idea what it was; something about hot stones and cheese. So when I sat down for my first Raclette meal in Rapperswil, Switzerland, I had no idea what to expect. I especially did not expect the love affair that subsequently unfolded. “A meal made up of potatoes, melted cheese, and pickles?” I asked, “Am I in heaven?” Now I need only walk by the outside of a restaurant serving Raclette to be drawn in by the smell. Sometimes all it takes is seeing the packages of Raclette cheese in the grocery store and the next thing I know I am making the dish in my microwave at home. I’d call it a minor obsession.

read more…

“Almanya” in San Diego

San Diego kicked off its first German Film Festival, German Currents in 2011. It seemed to be a long time coming considering that there are an estimated 100,000 Germans living in the San Diego metro area and Orange County.

The festival opened with the screening of Almanya – Willkommen in Deutschland, a movie written by two Turkish German sisters, Yasemin and Nesrin Şamdereli, about a Turkish immigrant family’s literal and figurative trip back to Turkey. The family’s patriarch, Hüseyin, leaves his hometown in a village near Anatolia during the initial Gastarbeiter wave of Turkish immigration in the ‘60s in order to earn what was considered big money working in a German factory, which he sends back to support his family. Although originally unplanned, the whole family, made up of his wife, Fatma, and their first three children, eventually join their father and move to their new home in Berlin. Hüseyin and Fatma soon thereafter welcome their fourth child who is their only child born in Germany. read more…

What to do with all that junk?

The trash separation schemes in Germany are legendary, and have been covered in this blog previously: Garbage in, garbage out. But what do you do when your stuff doesn’t fit in any of those little bins anymore? Take it to the dump! In Germany, they don’t actually have a dump where you can just go deliver your trash – at least, not that I have seen. But they do have a few different types of places for offloading all that junk that piles up in your garage.

1. Paper: In a household with small children, it happens on occasion (after birthdays and holidays, for instance) that we find ourselves overwhelmed with cardboard boxes. The pickup for our paper bin is every 3 weeks – and they will only accept what is in the bin. Rather than cut up all the cardboard to fit in the bin and then hope we don’t drown in newspapers before the next pickup, I often take cardboard boxes to the Wertstoffhof or recycling center. I can drop off as much paper as I want, for free. read more…

Bad Nauheim and Elvis


Towards the end of my October visit to Austria and Germany, my wife and I drove to Bad Nauheim in the state of Hesse, about a half-hour drive north from Frankfurt am Main. When I told Germans why I was going there, I usually got chuckles in response.

Today the spa town of Bad Nauheim (pop. 30,365) is famous for its effervescent salt baths, special medical clinics, and what the Germans now call “wellness.” In the 1920s the then luxury resort town was popular with the rich and famous (Marion Davies, Albert Einstein, Lillian Gish, William Randolph Hearst). In 1891 the future US president Franklin Delano Roosevelt even spent time there as a child with his family. But Bad Nauheim and neighboring Friedberg are also known for something else: Elvis Presley’s military years in Germany. I had earlier done some research on Elvis in Germany when I first wrote an article on the topic for the German Way.

Elvis lived in Bad Nauheim from 1958 to 1960 when he served in the US Army. Unlike most G.I.’s in Germany at the time, Elvis lived off-base, first in hotels, later in a rented three-story villa. I wanted to take some photographs of various Elvis landmarks in the region called the Wetterau (named for the Wetter river), as well as get a feeling for the place where Elvis spent 17 months of his life when he was still in his early twenties. As I walked through the streets of Bad Nauheim I couldn’t help thinking about the kind of expat life Elvis had in Germany. We stayed at the beautiful hillside Johannisberg Hotel and Café Restaurant overlooking Bad Nauheim, where Elvis had once caused a furor with his presence. He drove his sporty BMW 507 up the same winding road we took. I was driving a rented BMW 118 diesel. (Not quite the same thing, but at least it was also a stick shift.) read more…

When to go Home

It’s hard to know when to go home. Situations arise back in Canada that often tug at my heart, wanting to pull me across the ocean.  Though we get to experience many wonderful things while living here, we expats also miss out on a whole lot. While we do have most of our lives here: our partners, house, jobs, kids, pets, friends, routines etc., we also have a whole world back home.  My friends in Canada know that I won’t be there for their birthday parties or that special “girls night out”.  My family knows I won’t be joining them for Thanksgiving dinner or Christmas morning breakfast. But we miss more than the simple occasions; I have also missed important weddings and the birth of my best friend’s baby.  So what does eventually compel us to interrupt our pleasant European life, spend a couple thousand bucks, hop on a plane, and fly back overseas?

Death.
read more…

Schaffe Schaffe Häusle Baue

That’s nice thick Swabian for “work and work to build a house”. The Swabians are probably the most home-owning obsessed of the Germans, and even here, I’m not even sure that the majority of people live in their own property. Continental Europe in general is very different than the Anglo-Saxon world in terms of property ownership. Most Europeans prefer to rent, usually apartments near a city. Property ownership here is just not as popular, and people (hopefully) invest their money elsewhere. Our adventures with finding a home to buy took ages, then we gutted and completely renovated the darn thing. On the topic of Handwerker (a lovely catch-all term referring to builders, electricians, painters, plumbers, etc.) alone, I’m sure I could fill pages… but I’ll spare you (for now!)

In a rental property, as various other blog posts here have referred to, you get the walls and floor and ceiling and a functioning bathroom when you move in. Light fixtures, window coverings (except for external shades, Rollladen), and kitchens must typically be provided by the tenant. Many Germans have told me that it’s obvious why renters should buy and install their own kitchen: it is such a personal thing. Really? In a rental? read more…

Cow Parade

I’m on a bit of a tourist kick at the moment. For my last post, I wrote about where to take visitors in Swabia. This week’s topic: the cow parade. I had never heard of this tradition until last year, when colleagues of mine included it in their hiking weekend. I immediately thought “hey, I bet my boys would love that!” and my husband disagreed, saying they were too little and would be scared. Of cows? Please. Although, the bells are indeed very loud, and cows are kind of big. So we waited another year and just last weekend, I experienced the Viehscheid in the Allgäu (which follows the the Almabtrieb in Germany and Austria, known in Switzerland as the Alpabzug) This refers to the process of bringing the cows down from the alpine meadows, and returning them to their owners to spend the winter in barns. It involves a parade of cows decked out with flowers and wreaths, oom-pah-pah bands, traditional celebration food, beer, and cow bells. Lots of cow bells.

My first encounter with cow bells was while hiking in the Alps. The Alps are glorious for hiking, and on a leisurely stroll above the clouds one day, I found myself transported to a magical place. read more…