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What and Where to Eat in Vienna

In my last post I exulted on the loveliness that is Vienna. The grand architecture, regal attractions like performances at the Spanish Riding School and the palaces (plural). This small city is packed with elegance and charm.

But that is only the half of it as I have yet to talk about the food. Many North Americans lump all “German” food together as some type of amalgamation of heavy meaty dishes. As someone based in Berlin, I can recognize most of the dishes categorized as German like Schweinshaxe, Schäufele and even the humble Bretzel as Bavarian by birth. Germany has distinct food regions, and its German-speaking neighbors to the south have a food culture all their own. One of the most famous “German” dishes is distinctly Austrian, though it is so totally beloved it is served across Europe and around the world, the Schnitzel.

In this post I will offer some of my favorite things to eat in Vienna and where to eat them. It is an essential element of any visit to the Austrian capitol.

Schnitzel in Austria

A proper Schnitzel doesn’t restrict itself to plate borders PHOTO: Erin Porter

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Baby Names in Germany, Austria, and Switzerland

Baby Names: In and Out of Fashion

Like many other things in life, baby names go in and out of fashion. It’s an international phenomenon that applies globally, regardless of language. Some first names (Vornamen) are rather timeless, while others fade away. Baby names are also much more international that we might think. On this page we look at and compare recent popular baby names in Germany, Austria, Switzerland and the USA. At the end you’ll find a list of old-fashioned German first names.

Vornamen • First Name Facts
Baby names…

  • vary according to language, country, and era.
  • vary within a country by region, state, and ethnicity.
  • in German-speaking Europe tend to be very international, especially in the age of the internet.
  • can in some cases be timeless, without an expiration date. (Florian, William)
  • can drop like a rock after years of high popularity. (Taylor, Kevin)
  • can make a comeback after years of rarity. (Emil)
  • are inspired and gain popularity (or lose it) through the influences of popular culture (books, films, current events, sports, etc.)

Unlike in the United States, German parents can’t simply pick any first name they like. The new baby’s name must be approved by the local Standesamt (registry office). There are rules and requirements for baby names that must be followed. German bureaucracy must get involved. It’s the German way!

Germany’s Lack of a Central Database
Considering the German tendency to gather data, it may be surprising to learn that, unlike most countries, Germany has no official record-keeping agency that maintains a nationwide, annual database of baby names. German-speaking Austria, Switzerland, and Liechtenstein each do have an official national database. In the United States the Social Security Administration (SSA) has maintained a database of baby names dating from 1880 to the present.

GfdS website homepage

The Gesellschaft für deutsche Sprache e. V. (GfdS) is a not-for-profit German language association based in Wiesbaden that, among other activities, annually compiles baby name data for Germany (since 1977). PHOTO: GfdS website

For names in Germany, to provide consistency, we have used the data provided by the Gesellschaft für deutsche Sprache e. V. (GfdS), a nongovernmental association. But there are other private baby name databases and websites for German names, some of which we link to below. When using a different database below, we note that fact. The only problem with the GfdS data is the fact that in order to obtain their full list of 200 baby names, you have to pay a fee. That means for this blog post we are limited to the GfdS’s publicly available Top 10 names. (Yes, we’re too cheap to pay for it, but we provide a link below that readers can use to order the full GfdS names list for 2023.)

Top 10 Baby Names in GERMANY • 2023
Mädchen / Girls Jungen / Boys
1. Sophia/Sofia (2) 1. Noah (1)
2. Emilia (1) 2. Mateo/Matt(h)eo (2)
3. Emma (3) 3. Leon (3)
4. Mia (4) 4. Paul (5)
5. Hanna/Hannah (5) 5. Emil (7)
6. Mila (7) 6. Luca/Luka (8)
7. Lina (6) 7. Henry/Henri (10)
8. Ella (8) 8. Elias (6)
9. Klara/Clara (9) 9. Louis/Luis (9)
10. Lia/Liah (14) 10. Liam (15)
Previous rank (2022) displayed in ( ). Each of the names in the Top 10 comprised about one percent of all first names, ranging from 0.92% to 1.39%. Source: Gesellschaft für deutsche Sprache e. V. (GfdS). Other non-government websites also compile annual baby name lists for Germany, Austria, and Switzerland.

Missing Names and New Names
Two male names that were previously in the Top 10 are missing in the 2023 Germany rankings. Both Ben, a No. 1 name in 2019, and Finn, ranked 4th last year, have now fallen out of the Top 10. On the other hand, Liam, in 15th place last year, rose five places for 2023. Liam, an Irish form of William, probably got a boost from two popular film actors: Liam Neeson (Irish) and Liam Hemsworth (Australian). Liam and Noah ranked 1 and 2 in the 2022 US names list. Henry, 7th in Germany, was also 7th in the US 2023 list. Mateo, 7th in Germany was 11th in the US for 2022. Mateo/Matheo/Matteo is a Spanish or Italian form of the biblical name Matthew (Matthäus in German).

For the girls, Lia made it into 10th position for 2023. That’s a climb in popularity from 63rd in 2010, 25th in 2020, and 14th in 2022. The German female names have been very stable for several years, with no big name popularity drops as with the boys. Germany’s female names also are very international. The following “German” names for girls also appear in the US Top 10 list for 2022: Emma, Sophia, and Mia. See the USA Top 20 names below.

Regional Naming Variations in Germany
The baby names rankings for Germany above are for the entire nation. However, if we look at each of the 16 Bundesländer (federal states), regional variations become apparent. According to the GfdS, here are the top three boys and girls names in some sample German Länder:

BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG
Girls: 1. Sophia (1), 2. Emma (3), 3. Emilia (5)
Boys: 1. Noah (1), 2. Leon (2), 3. Matteo (3)

BAVARIA
Girls: 1. Sophia (1), 2. Emilia (3), 3. Emma (2)
Boys: 1. Leon (2), 2. Felix (5), 3. Lukas (1)

BERLIN
Girls: 1. Sophia (1), 2. Emilia (2), 3. Charlotte (5)
Boys: 1. Mohammed (1), 2. Noah (2), 3. Adam (3)

HAMBURG
Girls: 1. Emilia (4), 2. Sophia (3), 3. Emma (1)
Boys: 1. Mohammed (5), 2. Henry (3), 3. Liam (9)

HESSE
Girls: 1. Emilia (2), 2. Sophia (1), 3. Emma (6)
Boys: 1. Noah (1), 2. Mohammed (3), 3. Matheo (2)

LOWER SAXONY
Girls: 1. Ella (4), 2. Emilia (1), 3. Emma (5)
Boys: 1. Noah (1), 2. Matheo (2), 3. Finn (3)

SAXONY
Girls: 1. Hanna (1), 2. Emilia (4), 3. Emma (2)
Boys: 1. Emil (1), 2. Matheo (4), 3. Oskar (3)

Problem Names: Karen, Kevin, Chantal, and Others
The Irish given name Kevin was at one time a very popular name for boys in Germany. It became so popular in fact that a negative preconception about the name Kevin developed among teachers and the general public in Germany. There is even a term for this phenomenon: Kevinismus (“Kevinism”).

It was somewhat similar to the later negative attitude about the name Karen that developed in the United States recently. But the name “Karen” became a somewhat random, unfair meme after various white women appeared in cell phone videos doing inappropriate, racist things in reaction to the presence of Black or Asian people.

Unlike Karen, the negative attitude about Kevin had no real basis in fact. It simply reflected a prejudice against trendy, “foreign” names, including the French female name Chantal. The female equivalent of Kevinism was Chantalism.

Kevin first entered the West German Vorname world in the late 1970s when the English football (soccer) player Kevin Keegan played for Hamburg SV between 1977 and 1980. But the name Kevin didn’t spike to extreme popularity until after the 1990 hit movie Home Alone. The German title was Kevin – Allein zu Haus, reflecting the leading character Kevin McCallister (played by Macaulay Culkin). Around the same time, the actor Kevin Costner appeared in several hit films, including Dances With Wolves (1990), which did well in Germany. In 1991 the number one baby name for boys in Germany was Kevin. The name remained very popular into the early 2000s, but by 2010 it had largely disappeared from the top baby names lists in the German-speaking world.

The same thing happened, less dramatically, to earlier trendy given names such as Heini (short for Heinrich), Horst, Detlef, and Uschi (short for Ursula). For a full list of dated German first names see below.

Top 10 Baby Names in AUSTRIA • 2023
Mädchen / Girls Buben / Boys
1. Emma (4) 1. Maximilian (3)
2. Emilia (2) 2. Felix (6)
3. Marie (1) 3. Paul (1)
4. Mia (6) 4. Jakob (2)
5. Anna (3) 5. Noah (10)
6. Sophia 6. Elias (4)
7. Laura (7) 7. David (5)
8. Valentina (8) 8. Jonas (9)
9. Lena (5) 9. Leon (7)
10. Johanna 10. Lukas
Previous rank (2022) displayed in ( ). Source: Gesellschaft für deutsche Sprache e. V. (GfdS). Other nongovernmental websites also compile annual baby name lists for Germany, Austria, and Switzerland.

Another source of Austrian baby names is charlies-names.com, sponsors of a name app for Android and iOS, which lists names for 2024. Their Top 50 list for Austria varies somewhat from the official statistik.at list above, and also includes “unisex names”. According to charlies-names.com, the Top 10 names for boys and girls in Austria for 2024 are:

GIRLS: 1. Emilia, 2. Sophie/Sofie, 3. Sophia/Sofia, 4. Emma, 5. Hanna(h), 6. Mia, 7. Luisa, 8. Marie, 9. Ella, 10. Amalie
BOYS: 1. Elias, 2. Felix, 3. Jonas, 4. Mateo/Matteo, 5. Maximilian, 6. Jakob, 7. Paul, 8. Teo/Theo, 9. Finn/Fynn, 10. Emil

Top 10 Baby Names in SWITZERLAND • 2023
Mädchen / Girls Knaben / Boys
1. Emilia (2) 1. Noah (1)
2. Mia (1) 2. Liam (8)
3. Malea (10) 3. Leon (4)
4. Emma (3) 4. Matteo (2)
5. Lina (4) 5. Leano (8)
6. Elena (5) 6. Luca (3)
7. Mila (8) 7. Elias (6)
7. Sofia (19) 8. Lio (5)
9. Lia (9) 9. Lian (12)
10. Alina (6) 10. Nino (7)
Previous rank (2022) displayed in ( ). Source: Gesellschaft für deutsche Sprache e. V. (GfdS). Other nongovernmental websites also compile annual baby name lists for Germany, Austria, and Switzerland.

Another source of German Swiss baby names is charlies-names.com, sponsors of a name app, which lists names for 2023. Their Top 50 list for German-speaking Switzerland varies somewhat from the official babynames-stat.ch list above, and also includes “unisex names”. The Top 10 names for boys and girls in German Switzerland are:

GIRLS: 1. Emilia, 2. Sophia/Sofia, 3. Mia, 4. Mila/Myla, 5. Lia(h), 6. Sophie/Sofie, 7. Emma, 8. Lina, 9. Malia, 10. Elea
BOYS: 1. Levi/Levy, 2. Elias, 3. Liam, 4. Finn/Fyn, 5. Mateo/Matteo, 6. Lio, 7. Leon, 8. Mael, 9. Louis/Luis, 10. Elio

Top 10 Baby Names in the USA • 2023
Girls Boys
1. Olivia 1. Liam
2. Emma 2. Noah
3. Oliver 3. Charlotte
4. James 4. Amilia
5. Sophia 5. Elijah
6. Mia 6. Mateo
7. Isabella 7. Theodore
8. Ava 8. Henry
9. Evelyn 9. Lucas
10. Luna 10. William
Source: Social Security Administration (SSA)

Similarities Across Countries and Languages
In 2023 there were many similarities among name lists for the US and Germany, as well as for Australia, Canada, England, and other nations. Several boys’ and girls’ names can be seen on both the American list above and the lists for German-language countries. Charlotte, Henry, Sophia/Sophie, Mateo, Emma, Noah, Mia, and Liam appear on German-language and English-language lists. Some may be pronounced differently, but it’s obvious than many names cross international borders. Some of the names are biblical (Noah), while others are historic (Charlotte, Sophia). In all cases they are now international.

Helmut Schmidt and Ronald Reagan in 1978

German Chancellor Helmut Schmidt (left) with Ronald Reagan, the future US president, in Bonn, West Germany in November 1978. PHOTO: Detlef Gräfingholt, Bundesarchiv via Wikipedia Commons

Oldies But Goodies
In the table below you’ll find a lot of names you probably know, but have fallen out of favor and fashion. Germany’s former chancellor, Angela Merkel, has a first name that was once popular, but is no longer found in Top 10 baby name lists. One of my favorite German chancellors (from 1974 to 1982) was Helmut Schmidt (1918-2015). His full name was Helmut Heinrich Waldemar Schmidt! There was also an “Uncle Helmut” in my Austrian wife’s family. But that male given name is quite rare today.

I remember the film actress Elke Sommer very well. (She’s still alive and well, by the way, now living in the Los Angeles area.) Sommer appeared in many European and Hollywood films in the 1960s and 1970s. She was born Elke Schletz on 5 November 1940 in Berlin-Spandau. In Germany the female first name Elke peaked in popularity between the 1940s and the 1960s. It began to fade away in the 1970s until the name “Elke” pretty much disappeared in the 1980s.

Below you’ll find a list of German male and female names that are for the most part very rare in the present day. It’s a collection of first names that we have dubbed “oldies but goodies”.

German First Names No Longer in Fashion
The following names, listed alphabetically, were common Vornamen in the past. Today German parents would be reluctant to give their boy or girl such an old-fashioned name. But there are a few exceptions. Names listed below in bold type are old traditional ones that have enjoyed a comeback in recent years.
Mädchennamen / Girls’ Names
Ada, Adelheid, Agnes, Alice, Alina, Altraud, Alma, Alwine, Amalie, Andrea, Anette, Angela, Angelika, Anita, Anke, Anneliese, Astrid, Auguste, Barbara, Bärbel, Beate, Berta/Bertha, Bettina, Birgit, Brigitte, Brunhild(e), Cäcilie, Carmen, Charlotte, Christine, Claudia, Clara/Klara, Cornelia, Dagmar, Dora, Doris, Dorothea, Edith, Elfriede, Elke, Elsa, Elsbeth, Erika, Eva, Franziska, Frauke, Frieda/Frida, Friederike, Gabi/Gabriel(a), Gerda, Gerlinde, Gertraut, Gertrud, Gisela, Grete, Gretchen, Gretel, Gudrun, Hedda, Hedi/Hedy, Hedwig, Heike, Helene, Helga, Helma, Hilda, Hannelore, Hedwig, Heide/Heidi, Heike, Henni, Henriette, Hermine, Herta/Hertha, Hilda/Hilde, Hildegard, Ida, Ilsa, Ina, Inga, Inge, Ingeborg, Ingmar, Ingrid, Irmgard, Irmhild, Irmela, Irene, Isabella/Isabelle, Isolde, Johanna, Josefa, Josefine, Jutta, Karin, Karla, Kerstin, Klara, Krimhilde, Kunigunde, Leni, Liane, Lina, Lisbeth, Liselotte, Magda, Magdalene, Maren, Margot, Maria, Marianne, Margrit, Marion, Marlis, Martha, Mathilde, Meike, Minna, Monika, Nadine, Nora, Olga, Ottilie, Petra, Regina/Regine, Renate, Rita, Roberta, Romy, Rosa, Rosemarie, Roswitha, Rotraut, Ruth, Sabine, Senta, Silke, Silvia, Simone, Stephanie, Susanne, Tamara, Tanja, Thea, Therese, Ulrike, Ursula/Uschi, Ute, Viktoria, Walburga, Walli/Wally (short for Wal- names), Waltraut, Wilhelmine, Wilma
Jungennamen / Boys’ Names
Achim, Adalbert, Adolf/Adolph, Albrecht, Alexander, Alfred, Alwin, Andreas, Anton, Arno, Arnold, August, Axel, Balduin, Baldur, Benno, Bernd, Bernhard, Bertolt, Bodo, Boris, Bruno, Burkhard, Carl/Karl, Carsten, Christian, Clemens, Curd, Dagobert, Detlef, Dieter, Dietmar, Dietrich, Dirk, Eberhard, Eckhard, Edmund, Eduard, Egon, Emmerich, Emil, Erich, Erik, Ernst, Eugen, Fabian, Falko, Ferdinand, Florian, Frank, Franz, Friedrich, Fritz, Gebhard, Georg, Gerhard, Gero, Gerold, Gert, Gottfried, Gregor, Günther, Gustav, Hans, Harald, Harro, Harry, Hartmut, Hartwig, Heiko, Heiner, Heinz, Helmut, Henning, Herbert, Hermann/Herrmann, Herwart, Herwig, Hildebrand, Hinrich, Holger, Horst, Hubert, Hugo, Igor, Immanuel, Ingo, Jacob/Jakob, James, Jan, Jens, Joachim, Jochen, Johannes, Jörg, Joschka, Jürgen, Josef/Joseph, Karl, Karsten, Kaspar, Klaus, Knut, Konrad, Kunibert, Kuno, Kurt, Leopold, Lothar, Ludwig, Luitpold, Lutz, Manfred, Markus, Martin, Matthias, Moritz, Niels, Norbert, Olaf, Ortwin, Oskar, Oswald, Oswin, Otto, Ottokar, Paul, Peter, Poldi (Leopold), Rainer/Reiner, Ralf, Reinhard, Reinhold, Richard, Robert, Roland, Rolf, Rüdiger, Rudi/Rudolf, Rupert, Ruprecht, Sepp, Siegfried, Sigmund, Sigurd, Simon, Stefan, Theobald, Theo/Theodor, Thomas, Tobias, Udo, Uli/Ulrich, Uwe, Veit, Viktor, Volker, Waldemar, Walter/Walther, Werner/Wernher, Wiegand, Wilhelm/Willy, Willibald, Wolf, Wolfgang, Wolfram

You might be interested in another name tradition that was once popular in Austria and parts of Germany. Today it’s still popular in Sweden and some other European countries. Many Europeans know and celebrate their Name Day (Namenstag). In some countries your name day is more important than your birthday.

HF

Guide to Vienna

When I was last on the job hunt, I had two interesting opportunities. The jobs had some important differences, including different locations. One was in Cologne, the other in Vienna. This caught my attention as both options were remote so I could happily work from my home in Berlin but also included the chance to occasionally visit the office. Cologne is nice, but an office visit to Vienna a few times a year sounded like a bonus. I took the job in Vienna.

And I’m glad I did! Startup life is chaotic, but it takes on an air of elegance when surrounded by such grandeur. I’ve had two trips to office so far, combining one of them with a meander through Munich, Salzburg, and Nuremberg. Combining work and travel is my ideal work environment.

Stephansdom in Vienna, Austria PHOTO: Erin Porter

I am still getting to know the magnificent city known as Wien, but here are my recommendations on where to visit in Vienna, Austria.

read more…

Indiana’s German Place Names and Connections

Indiana: The Hoosier State

The US state whose name means “land of the Indians” also has a lot of German connections. In fact the largest ancestry reported in Indiana is “German” – with 22.7 percent of the population claiming that ancestry in the 2020 census. In the 1980 census that percentage was even higher: 32 percent German.

The largest immigrant group to settle in Indiana were Germans, followed by the number of immigrants from Ireland and England. Although there was technically no unified “Germany” (Prussia) until 1871, German ancestry refers to people with a German-speaking heritage, including Austrians and German Swiss, many of whom arrived in Indiana and the US before 1871.

Carol Lombard in 'To Be or Not to Be'

Carole Lombard in her last film, TO BE OR NOT TO BE (1942). The German American actress Carol Lombard was born in Fort Wayne, Indiana. She was married to the German American Clark Gable when she died in a plane crash in 1942. Her birth name was Jane Alice Peters. Learn more below. PHOTO: Paramount Studios, Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons

Urban versus Rural
German Swiss and Alsatian farmers settled in the rural areas of Indiana. German beer brewers and other craftspeople preferred more urban locations, settling in Indianapolis, Evansville, Fort Wayne, and other cities, where the German-language press thrived for many years. Indiana counts among those US states where German-language newspapers at one time numbered in the hundreds, not all of them in large cities. (See more about newspapers below.)

In Indianapolis and other cities, the German language and German culture had a significant impact on the development of the city, particularly by the establishment of gymnastics clubs (Turners) in the 1850s, which were as much about social and cultural development as they were physical development. German American groups influenced music, art, education, business, politics, and physical fitness all across Indiana. read more…

Guide to Salzburg

A perk of my new job is that the headquarters is in Vienna. While I usually work remote from Berlin, there have already been a few opportunities to visit the team in office, as well as combine work and pleasure by taking some days to explore other places in Austria. On my last trip south I took the train and stopped in Munich, Nuremberg, and Salzburg. I had visited all these places before, but none more briefly than Salzburg. This fairytale city deserved a longer visit so we scheduled three days of sightseeing in the land of the von Trapps, mountainous fortresses, and perfect plate-sized schnitzels.

Salzburg Austria at night

Salzburg Austria at night. PHOTO: Erin Porter

Brief History of Salzburg
The Salzburg of today is heavily reminiscent of its history. The city was established all the way back in 696 C.E. by a missionary named St. Rupert. First a Benedictine monastery was built, then a small town grew around it. read more…

Why Nefertiti Is in Berlin, Not Cairo

Egyptian Artifacts and a Wealthy Berlin Patron of the Arts

If you want to see the famous bust of Egyptian Queen Nefertiti (c. 1370 – c. 1330 BCE), the wife of Pharaoh Akhenaten, you have to visit Berlin’s Neues Museum (New Museum) to experience it in person. The world-famous sculpture of Nefertiti’s head and shoulders first arrived in Berlin in 1913. Other than during times of war, the Nefertiti bust has resided in Berlin since then, but it has only been at its current location on Museum Island since 2009.

Nefertiti Bust in north cupola room of the Neues Museum

The bust of Egyptian Queen Nefertiti has been located in the North Dome Room of the Neues Museum since 2009. She looks pretty good for her 3,300+ years. The Neues Museum will celebrate the 100th anniversary of her first public display in Berlin in April 1924. PHOTO: David von Becker, Staatliche Museen zu Berlin

100 Years of Nefertiti in Berlin
Nefertiti is the main attraction of the New Museum’s extensive Egyptian Museum section, and for good reason. Her artistic excellence and almost flawless condition have earned her likeness the stardom she has long enjoyed. Although it has been in Berlin for over a century, the bust of Nefertiti has not always been on public display, and her location in the German capital has changed numerous times over the years. Attributed to the sculptor Thutmose, since its arrival in Berlin, the bust has survived wars and political turmoil by being relocated, sometimes temporarily in places far removed from the capital city.

In 2024 the Neues Museum will officially celebrate the 100th anniversary of Nefertiti being on public display in Berlin. When the acclaimed 19-inch (48 cm) tall bust first went on permanent display in April 1924 in Berlin, public interest in things Egyptian had been heightened recently by Howard Carter’s 1922 discovery of King Tutankhamun’s nearly intact tomb in Egypt’s Valley of the Kings. The queen’s striking beauty only added to her appeal.

It took Carter another two years to extract Tut’s iconic mask. Since December 1925, Tutankhamun’s golden funerary mask – with the image of Osiris, the Egyptian god of the afterlife – has been on permanent display at Cairo’s Egyptian Museum. It, along with other Tut tomb treasures, has also been loaned out by Egypt for limited museum tours around the world. The new Grand Egyptian Museum at Giza has been under construction since 2012. It may or may not officially open in 2024. Currently only very limited access tours, booked in advance, are available.

Miniature Nefertiti

This bust of Nefertiti is only 2 inches (5 cm) tall. It is a souvenir replica, one of many thousands sold around the globe. The few flaws of the original have been restored. PHOTO: Hyde Flippo

Faithful Copies of the Nefertiti Bust
Soon after the Nefertiti figure arrived in Berlin, Heinrich Schäfer, the director of the Egyptian Museum had commissioned the German Australian sculptor Tina Haim-Wentscher (1887-1974) to create faithful copies of the bust. (She was a longtime friend of the German sculptor Käthe Kollwitz, who in 1933 advised her Jewish friend not to return to Germany from an overseas journey with her husband.) In all, Haim-Wentscher created three replicas, one each for Kaiser Wilhelm II and James Simon (see below) in 1913, both with Nefertiti’s missing left eye and other flaws restored, plus a later (early 1920s) third copy that was used as a model for a series of high-quality replicas sold to museums and private collections worldwide. Smaller, less costly, less exacting reproductions of the queen’s bust have been marketed as souvenirs ever since. But the original remained in Berlin. And that soon became a problem. read more…

Bike School in Germany

During the pandemic my family would take long walks around our neighborhood in Berlin. As nearly nothing was open, it was our entertainment and we wandered far and wide, through forests and meadows, parks and gardens. As the pandemic-measures wore on, playgrounds re-opened in Berlin – yet our boredom grew. We dusted off our bikes as spring and summer took over and continued to ride further out.

One of the places we would roll past in wonder is a miniature traffic course with lights and lanes and sidewalks. It was fenced in and closed like everything else, but my husband knew what it was from his time as an Erzieher (KiTa teacher): Jugendverkehrsschule. Translating to “Youth traffic schools”, these schools prepare young Germans to be knowledgeable bike riders. I was fascinated, but as my kids were too young and it was closed until  after the pandemic I forgot about it til recently.

We are back to taking walks as the weather has improved and walked by this busy school in Pankow recently. Fascinated, we entered, biked and learned. Here are some of the things I discovered about German youth bike schools.

German youth bike school

Jugendverkehrsschule Pankow Berlin PHOTO: Erin Porter

History of Jugendverkehrsschule
Youth traffic schools or JVS emerged in both East and West Germany in the 1950s. Recognizing a need for standard bike safety info, most places actually opened these type of schools including Austria, Switzerland and most of Europe. One of the oldest in Germany is in Rostock and one in Frankfurt is even equipped with a tram. read more…

Coburg, Germany, Black History and St. Mauritius

Coburg, Germany Before, During, and After the War

As Black History Month has recently passed its halfway mark, I’m returning to a theme I’ve written about before: Black Americans and Germany.

Which, believe it or not, brings us to the northern Bavarian city of Coburg, population 41,842 (2022). Coburg has a long and interesting history. Part of that history involves the British Queen Victoria. The monumental statue seen in the center of the 1945 photo below is still standing in Coburg’s Market Square today. It was placed there in 1865, as a gift from the queen to honor her German husband, Prince Albert, a member of the royal house of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha.

American tank crews belonging to Company D of the all-Black 761st Tank Battalion in Coburg

In late April 1945 American tank crews belonging to Company D of the all-Black 761st Tank Battalion entered the city of Coburg, Germany. Previously they had fought valiantly in the Battle of the Bulge. They were now tasked with cleaning out any remaining Nazi machine-gun nests in the area. Like the famed Tuskegee airmen who had escorted US bombers in Europe, they operated in the segregated American armed forces of the time. (See a more recent photo of this location below.) PHOTO: U.S. Army, public domain (Wikipedia)

A lot has changed since the British royal family changed their dynastic name in 1917 from “Saxe-Coburg and Gotha” to “Windsor”. In addition to the United Kingdom, members of the Saxe-Coburg and Gotha dynasty, dating back to 1826, have sat on the thrones of Belgium, Bulgaria, and Portugal. That name change came about because of the First World War and a desire to distance the British royals from their German royal ancestors and the Prussian Empire that was now waging war against the British Empire.

But in the lead-up to the globe’s second worldwide war in the early 1930s, Coburg itself also underwent a radical change, as it gained the dubious distinction of becoming the first city in Germany to display the Nazi swastika flag on a public building (the Rathaus, city hall) on 18 January 1931. On 26 February 1932, Coburg achieved another first when it bestowed upon Adolf Hitler the title of Ehrenbürger (honorary citizen of Coburg). Knowing this, you could be forgiven for thinking Coburg has little to do with Black history. That is until you see the city’s centuries old coat of arms, the African-looking Coburger Mohr, or the “Coburg Moor”. read more…