The GW Expat Blog

My Favorite Berlin Christmas Markets

December 11, 2023
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I am fresh off the high of my favorite Weihnachtsmarkt (Christmas market). After the disaster of the pandemic years, my appreciation for Christmas markets has only grown. My personal favorite only runs for one weekend every Christmas season. I eagerly anticipate its arrival, and have a brief mourning period when it is over. Luckily, there are plenty of markets and Glühwein to warm me back up.

While some Germans may scoff at Berlin’s Christmas markets saying others in the country are better (and they very well might be), Berlin comes with quantity. There are nearly 80 markets and many bring the Gemütlichkeit glow. Here are my favorite Berlin Christmas markets with a few honorable mentions because there are just too many to talk about.

Alt-Rixdorf Christmas Market

Neukölln weihnachtsmarkt

Alt-Rixdorfer Weihnachtsmarkt PHOTO: Erin Porter

Location: Richardplatz
Dates: Dec 8-10th, 2023

This quiet little pocket of Neukölln lights up for this special weekend of Christmas magic. I love how you make your way through barely lit side streets to stumble upon this long oval square lit by a thousand white lights in the trees and gas lights carried by visitors. There is stall after stall of locally made, hand-crafted goods – no mass produced items here! Many of the 200 stalls come with compelling stories, as they are community organizations ranging from KiTas to NGOs, and proceeds benefit the neighborhood. This is the place to shop for thoughtful, unique gifts to stuff your favorite person’s stocking or place under the tree for yourself. Just beware the ever-present crowds that mean you might need to wait a moment to get close to the wares.

Other highlights of the market include the pony rides beneath the shimmering branches, the old smithy open for demonstrations, a stage full of amateur carolers, and the carriage house (usually open) which displays vehicles throughout the centuries. Don’t forget to look out for several version of Nikolaus wandering the cobblestone streets. Many give candy, but Saint Nikolaus gives a scroll of history the parents may enjoy more than the kids. My favorite Santa can be found raising money for the firemen. My family swears he is the real Claus and we have been faithfully visiting him for years.

Heissa Holzmarkt

Location: Holzmarkt 25
Dates: November 23rd – December 23rd, every Thursday through Sunday

Can a Christmas market be cool? In Berlin it can.

This site has a contentious history of greedy developers, once abandoned riverside property and a commitment to the arts. Again – how Berlin. No matter the background, today’s Holzmarkt is part biergarten, part residential, and part pop-up businesses and event space. But at Christmas it is a wonderful mix of nostalgia and boho all at once. There is a wonderfully rickety carousel from the 1960s kids can ride for free. A fire-breathing dragon (or metal sculpture depending on how magical you are feeling) can be powered up with the drop of a coin. The food options are also eclectic with more interesting options than the typical sausage fare. But of course there is still Glühwein…and long drinks and beers you can enjoy until the late hours. Check the event calendar before you go for details on what’s happening.

Weihnachtsmärkte in Spandau

Location: Altstadt Spandau
Dates: November 27th – December 23rd

The old town of Spandau on the western end of Berlin is the perfect site for this medieval market. It attracts nearly 2 million visitors a year and is one of the biggest Christmas markets in Germany. A whooping 400 stalls take occupation throughout the area, closing down streets and spreading good cheer. A live animal nativity scene is a top attraction, as well as the real metalworks sending off sparks. Many artisans from Berlin and Brandenburg gather to sell their local goods which include baskets, candles, glass-blown art and many variety of porcelain. Gaze in awe at the performers in medieval garb including chain metal armor and performances with swords.

Lucia Weihnachtsmarkt in der KulturBrauerei

Location: KulturBrauerei
Dates: November 27th – December 23rd

This fan favorite has proved awfully busy in the last couple of years, but the setting of an old brick brewery and Scandinavia stylings still make this one of the best Weihnachtsmärkte in the city. There are games for the kids from trampolines to old-school shooting games, huts with sheepskin rugs serving a variety of game and even shaggy leather and coat-strung chairs by the fire. No matter when we go it almost seems full to bursting, but the twinkling lights and savory smells mean it embodies the concept of Hygge rather than simply overcrowded.

Weihnachtsmarkt am Roten Rathaus

Santa in Berlin

Christmas Market at Rotes Rathaus PHOTO: Erin Porter

Location: Rathausstraße 15
Dates: November 27th, 2023 – January 7th, 2024

Not to be confused with the more corporate cookie cutter market at Alexanderplatz (that also had two stalls catch on fire this year), visitors need only to walk through the station and below the Fernsehturm to find the market in front of the Rathaus (city hall) and springing from the Neptunebrunnen (Neptune Fountain). It is impressive. The towering Riesenrad (ferris wheel) can be seen for miles and the brightly lit ice rink encircling the fountain is chaotic Christmas fantasy. All your favorites are here, from food to gifts to ornaments. Musicians and performers wander the crowded aisles and several stands feature inside seating – a treat in the chill of Berlin winter.

Santa makes an appearance here, too. Three times a night you can watch Santa’s sleigh with a few tiny reindeer soar through the sky. He tells the story of Christmas (in German) and wishes the children Frohe Weihnachten. It is a winner for young and old, sure to fill one with wonder.

Another benefit of this market is its long run time. While many markets stop on Christmas Eve, this one runs a week into the new year.

Honorable mentions: Weihnachtszauber Gendarmenmarkt, Historischer Weihnachtsmarkt auf dem RAW-Gelände, Weihnachtsmarkt am Schloss Charlottenburg (contrary to popular opinion this market did not close last year).

These are just a few of the markets to dot the German capital this time of year. What are your favorite markets in Berlin, Germany, Europe or even back in the USA?

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About Erin "ebe" Porter
Motherlord of an American expat family in Berlin. I hail from rainy (but lovely!) Seattle & am raising two little Berliners. Drink, travel, write.

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